One evening, I walked across the road from the BnG to the villages community center, to visit a sewing class, one of the IRAs social programs designed to teach young people traditional practices, including needlework, fishing, and hunting. The Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities oversees 237 airports, 9 ferries serving 35 communities along 3,500 marine miles, over 5,600 miles of highway and 839 public facilities throughout the state of Alaska. The act gave Native Alaskans greater self-determination, but it also linked their economic well-being to the commercial exploitation of their lands. Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities, Kivalina Evacuation and School Site Access Road, Northwest Arctic Borough Title 9 Conditional Use Permit, ALASKA DEPARTMENT of TRANSPORTATION & PUBLIC FACILITIES. I dont like to talk about this, because it just gets to me, she said. The Southern Route is 7.7 miles long and would begin I cant believe its only four-thirty and its already dark, the years already almost over, and Im already in my forties.. school poster projects star project posters student kindergarten students collage kids beautiful typepad week paper life wilkes booth board crazy ), Another elder raised his hand and was given the microphone. https://toolkit.climate.gov/case-studies/relocating-kivalina "v@|&F2 qY so D On a visit to the state in 2015, President Barack Obama flew over Kivalina and posted a photograph of the island on social media from the air. Alaska Department of Transportation & Public Facilities officials accepted the award on June 7, 2022. material sources; and cost. The debate that morning, which began after a moment of prayer, was about where to put the relocated villages landfill and a new dump site for the makeshift toilets known regionally as honey buckets. Swan drove slowly, protecting his tires from the roads sharp gravel rocks. Options involving community relocation have been problematic, as they are neither culturally preferable nor fiscally practical in the foreseeable future. Up in the hills, maybe, Clinton said, referring to an area farther east of the new village site, where the tundra and the floodplains give way to the foothills of the De Long Mountains. After visiting the damage in Kivalina, the late U.S. This award belongs to the community and to each and every one of DOT&PFs partners, said Ryan Anderson, DOT&PF Commissioner. Teck Resources, the Canadian company that owns the mine, also pays NANA a share of its revenue. But the number of people involved is small, and the price tag so high that some in Alaska have questioned whether keeping such communities intact is worth the cost. forward for further evaluation (detailed in Section 3 of the Final EA). Kivalina is a barrier island off the westernmost coast and residents96 percent of which are Inupiatare feeling the impact of climate change. They had skin boats to hunt in the water. Five villages have the same climate change issues, some worse than ours. remain severe risk to life, health, and safety of residents during a storm surge event. On the lagoon side, Janet Mitchell recorded footage of a bulldozer shoring up a house at risk of losing its foundation, then posted a glimpse of calm seas. Reclamation plans are a big part of the community, Wallis said at one point. Kivalina has been at its current location since its school was built in the early 1900s. Another resident, Joe Swan, Sr. explains, The ice used to push migrating whales in close. It is common in Inupiat families for grandparents to adopt a grandchild to help them around the house as they age. In the film Kivalina: Life in the Modern Arctic, the audience has an intimate look into the lives of the Inupiaq people in the Native Village of Kivalina in Northern Alaska. Its haul roadwhich runs from the De Long Mountains to the portwas the only rectilinear imposition across the vast landscape. (The Western people call them stinky fish, a villager explained to me, but here we call them ambrosia.) If the fish are caught too early in the season, before the frost, they spoil. A classroom in the villages old school. When Mitchell was eight or nine, her grandmother chose her to come live with her and her husband, just as today Mitchells grandson Aaron lives with Mitchell. While school One villager expressed worry about a crack that had already appeared in the new road. of Transportation) After two years of construction, the Kivalina Access Road is now usable for the community. Road Route Alternatives: Three preliminary route options (Northern, Southern, and Combined Route A) were independently proposed by Kivalina and the Why Texass power grid still hasnt been fixed, despite deadly failures. Diminishing fish on the Wulik River, changes in caribou migration routes, reduced availability of berries and greens, and the inability to hunt sea mammals due to loss of sea ice have raised concerns about the village's food security: not only do residents fear for their safety due to erosion and ocean storms, growing numbers of families also face hunger. Evacuation routes considered to date by Kivalina and the NAB have included. The results of the survey are provided below under the topics of the questions. Another asked about a moose that had recently been hit by a mining truckwerent the trucks supposed to stop? Additionally, the dump site lacks a perimeter fence and draws wild animals, including bears. Moreover, the problems faced by Kivalina are the same ones facing as many as a hundred other villages around Alaska. Oblique of Kivalina, June 2010 Oblique of the riprap revetment, July 2011. Mitchell, who has gray hair and a friendly demeanor, welcomed me into her living room. Township 27 N, Range 26 W, of the Kateel River Meridian. Some say that Little People still visit Kivalina. Building on permafrost requires gravel pads that protect the ice from melting, and aboveground pipes. Snow machines (as snowmobiles are known in Alaska) replaced dogsled teams. River Source used last, if needed, once the other sites have been exhausted of the needed material. Alvin Bragg, Donald Trump, and the Pursuit of Low-Level Crimes. Summer Caribou, Egg Gathering, Salmon, Arctic Char. adjacent to the Kivalina Airport, immediately cross the lagoon with a 3,020-foot long causeway, and follow lowlands and relic channels of the Wulik River At times, the tundras agatine surface took on an almost fractal pattern of brown, gold, and green. WebEnvironmental Review . They told me, We leave the land like it is when we first come in. An alternative evacuation and relocation road is being studied. That was why we could hunt them. The event resulted in The feasibility of several potential route alignments were evaluated within a project study area encompassing Kivalina Island, the southern portion of Kivalina Lagoon, and the lower Wulik and Kivalina River drainages in Townships 27N and 28N, Ranges 25W, 26W and 27W of the Kateel River Meridian. Once further suitability studies on this or another site have been completed and been approved, the Northwest Arctic Borough School District can use funding received from the State of Alaska to build a new school. Hawley is a pragmatic and blunt woman of sixty with glasses and gray hair trimmed in a neat bob. Were more educated now than our people ever were in the past, Swan said. The future weighs heavily on the community. The airstrip in Kivalina cannot be used for evacuation: severe storms make it too dangerous, and erosion continues to threaten its existence. The project terminus at K-Hill is located in Section 19, Township 28N, Range 25W, of the The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Cond Nast. Oofta! she captioned her footage. and regional stakeholders. Instead of flush toilets, most homes use honey buckets. For the rest of the year, everything arrives by air. That the relocated village will finally give Kivalina residents running water and sewer services is a large part of its great promise, but the council members reluctantly conceded to the engineers that a new honey-bucket dump site would probably be necessary anyway. The road would be designed to accommodate both general purpose and emergency evacuation vehicles over a two-way road with shoulders, multiple turnouts, and safe side slopes that include guard rails or other safety features as required. The graph, generated by the SNAP Community Charts tool, depicts historical and projected average temperatures in Kivalina from 1961 to 2099. Kivalina is a barrier island off the westernmost coast and residents96 percent of which are Inupiatare feeling the impact of climate change. We have access to news, we have the education we need. And, she added, it was not our peoples decision to move to this little sand spit.. The court dismissed the lawsuit, citing, among other reasons, the difficulty of holding companies responsible when virtually everyone on Earth is responsible on some level for contributing to such emissions. The lawsuit also alleged that the companies had conspired to mislead the public about the impact of fossil fuels. The city of Gonzales announced plans to launch a bike lane pilot project on Wednesday. Alternative contracting, utilizing the Construction Manager General Contractor (CM/GC) method provided further innovations, with ASRC Civil Construction building the project for $43 million. Wulik River Source 1, Relic Channel Source 1, and Relic Channel Source 2 with the K-Hill site and Relic Channel sources given highest priority, and the Wulik Under the No-Action Alternative, an evacuation road would not be constructed from Kivalina to K-Hill. A look back at the Kivalina Evacuation road and bridge project in Western Alaska. Kivalina's environmental problems aren't restricted to the coast: as permafrost thaws, the nearby Wulik River washes away large chunks of streambank, and increased river sediment has caused difficulty in treating the community water supply. The seats on the other side were loaded up with cases of Pepsi and boxes of Puffs Ultra Soft tissue. The FINAL NWAB 2030 Comprehensive Plan Page is available. Swan broke apart a Dr Pepper box and laid the meat on it before returning to our conversation, and the teen-ager went back outside. Evacuation and School Access Road Project Route Alternatives. To avoid some of the same pitfalls, other villages have pursued strategies of managed retreat or protection in place. Managed retreat focusses on moving structures away from hazardous areas; protection in place focusses on reinforcement in order to buy time. Fact sheet (PDF 1.9M) Executive Summary (PDF 1.8M) threats with no safe way to evacuate during storm events with the potential to detrimentally impact the community over time. Millie Hawley, President, Native Village of Kivalina. launder billions of dollars in stolen bitcoin, Texass power grid still hasnt been fixed. Nobody responded. I arrived in Kivalina a few days after Merbok. We had never seen lightning before. When she submitted a video still to the local weather station, she was asked if it was real. site by serving as a full-service community emergency shelter with all-season support capabilities. Mitchell maintains a history of Kivalina on a Web site, which references the oldest known written request for relocation. I cherish every one of my failures. The Northwest Arctic Borough Relocating a few miles inland will not alleviate these concerns, however, as Kivalinas drinking water and hunting grounds will remain the same. Kivalina IRA President Millie Hawley says that this is a process that belongs to the people of Kivalina. Her youth was one of physical laborchopping wood, lugging ice, and hanging the slabs of ugruk, or bearded seal, that her grandmother butchered. Swan described the 2004 storm as the impetus for her desire to hold someone responsible for the situation Kivalina finds itself in. ; the vehicles are used by villagers to get around the island. Some impacts of climate change, such as the long-term outlook for the areas permafrost, are still unknown. It was freezing, and winter had not even started. One afternoon, Janet Mitchell asked if I wanted to see the new school site with her youngest brother, Replogle (Reppi) Swan, Sr., who is a whaling captain, the fire chief, and the president of Kivalinas search-and-rescue team. After more than a decade of navigating government bureaucracies, tribal members successfully lobbied for the construction of a bridge from Kivalina to the mainland. Women and elders use baited wire to catch crab through ice. At some point, the state and federal agencies did suggest we move to different towns, Hawley told me. Kivalina has piped water only at its school, its health clinic, and the communal laundromat and bathhouse called the washeteria. Kivalina already has money appropriated by the state for the construction of its new school. 2. Our elders were saying theyve never seen anything like that., In 2008, seven years after Swan met Luke Cole, a lawyer from the Center on Race, Poverty, and the Environment, in Kotzebue, the village sued a consortium of twenty-four oil, energy, and utility companies, alleging damages from climate change. Used with permission. WebNorth Plains Cemetery is located on Olmstead and Germain Roads. the project from STA 17+50 to STA 18+00 due to ice impact was noted. Caribou often come down to the coast in summer and can be hunted by boat. 2010). While exploration is under way at several sites nearby, they are not all on NANA-owned lands. Kivalina, a barrier island north of the Arctic Circle, is one of seventy-three Alaska Native villages threatened with destruction because of climate change. The plane to Kivalina was a vintage Cessna, and the passengers sat in a single column on its right side. Mitchell and Swan exchanged stories of the Little People, a parallel tribe who, Mitchell told me, lived among the Inupiat people before deciding that they preferred to live in isolation. . An elder at the bingo hall in Kivalina; games are held every night of the week except Sunday and Wednesday. (A spokesperson from the mine said that the wastewater is treated and discharged under strict water permits that comply with the Clean Water Act.). Concepts previously studied for their feasibility include construction of an earthen causeway across the lagoon that variously incorporates hydraulic and boat passage options including bridge(s), culvert(s), or both. (907) 451-5479 A-L. M-Z. Dressed in a black T-shirt and sweats, she was seated on a couch beneath a large photograph of her grandfather Clinton Swan, a whaling captain, a member of the tribal council, and a minister in the Episcopal Church, from whom she had inherited the house. The DOT&PF has selected the Southern Route with Lagoon Crossing D as the preferred alternative based on its ability to best meet the projects purpose while Midway through, we passed over a cluster of red and white storage buildings by the sea. Temperatures in the Arctic are rising at more than twice the rate of the global average.1 Results include violent ocean storms, flooding, and erosion beneath the homes of Kivalinaimpacts that have been traumatic to the barrier island's Alaskan Iupiaq community. Contact Us >. DOT&PF has been working with the The villagers had plenty of questions. Webdirect means of community evacuation to an acceptable mainland location on K-Hill. A slide-show presentation, given by a Teck representative named Rachel Wallis, focussed on Tecks past approach to mine closures and reclamation, the process by which the environmental effects of a closed mine are minimized. The landscape was golden and strewn with ponds and occasional tracks where Hondas had passed through. In Kivalina, several people I spoke with preferred not to use the word relocation. They call it, instead, an expansion.. The route also provides access to a new school under construction and will serve the evacuation site as a full-service community emergency shelter with all-season support capabilities. Poor living conditions are a contributing factor to juvenile delinquency. A rock revetment, completed in 2010 on the islands sea side, held strong. By signing up, you agree to our User Agreement and Privacy Policy & Cookie Statement. quality of material, access constraints, and potential impacts to protected resources (Golder Associates 2013). The Kivalina Evacuation and School Site Access Road project would provide Kivalina residents a safe and reliable evacuation route in the event of a catastrophic storm or ocean surge, allowing evacuees to temporarily mobilize to safe refuge at an assembly site on K-Hill. It was Swan, Mitchell told me, who encouraged the villagers to document the weather. She explained that the black gravel road on which we had stopped to chat was built on the villages former cemetery; as the island lost width through the years, a new cemetery opened near the airstrip. I dont recall anyone making a big deal out of it, but this is the freaking Arctic! she told me. It ends at the foot of a large hill, where a newly constructed school forms the heart of the future village. A more recent report designated Kivalina as one of seventy-three Alaska Native villages threatened with destruction because of erosion, flooding, and permafrost degradation. In October 2007, As of last week, it became a nationally award-winning evacuation route. hbbd``b`z$W@ $XA@ They mostly kept to themselves, their food brought in from elsewhere. The Cessna flew over the village, then banked, circled, and nosed into an easy descent onto Kivalinas gravel runway. (When I asked one resident if alcohol was a problem, he laughed. Kivalina Coastal Erosion, Kivalina, Alaska. Iupiaq Work to Preserve Food and Traditions on Alaska's North Slope, Guidelines for Considering Traditional Knowledges in Climate Change Initiatives, Local Environmental Observer (LEO) Network, Scenarios Network for Alaska + Arctic Planning (SNAP) Tools, Seven GenerationsCommunity-Based Environmental Planning, ANTHC | Climate Change in Kivalina, Alaska: Strategies for Community Health (PDF), Re-Locate Kivalina | Re-Locate Receives 2015 ArtPlace America Grant, Alaska Community Coastal Protection Project | Kivalina Project Page, U.S. Army Corps of Engineers | Relocation Planning Project Master Plan for Kivalina, Alaska (PDF), U.S. Army Corps of Engineers | Alaska District, U.S. Environmental Protection Agency | Pacific Northwest Region, Alaska Community Coastal Protection Project, Alaska Department of Transportation and Public Facilities. Kids taking a break on a four-wheel A.T.V. Kivalina's homes and critical infrastructure remain at constant risk of increasing erosion, with relocation as the only long-term option. minimizing environmental impacts and addressing the concerns of the public and agencies. Later that afternoon, I was having coffee with Carl Swan, the bingo caller, when Aaron came to the door holding the caribous heart and some ribs, a gift from his first hunting trip. This poses a contamination threat to fisheries during storms, particularly in the Kivalina lagoon east of the city. (Combined Route B) based on feedback received during public and agency scoping efforts in the fall of 2016. The couple who failed to launder billions of dollars in stolen bitcoin. Residents and others are making concerted efforts to move the community to safety. One calculation estimated the cost of moving Kivalina to be as high as four hundred million dollars, or almost a million dollars per resident. WebThe Kivalina school project needs about $20 million more in funding $9 million from the state and the rest expected from the borough, according to the Alaska Department of Education and Early Development. For Swan, it was important to make the statement that Kivalina understood the forces that had put it in such a precarious position. hb```,l_x(1Qn]aE/qwI.Ch Throughout the documentary, the village faces a huge obstacle: climate change. Representatives from Teck and NANA, wearing business-casual clothes, set up tables with various mining-related brochures and greeted the Kivalina residents with an upbeat air. WebThe Kivalina Evacuation Route and School Access Site project, completed in 2021, was recognized by the American Association of State Highway Transportation Officials On September 17th, Merbok, which had been downgraded to an extratropical storm, reached the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta and the Bering Sea inlet of Norton Sound, one of the strongest storms to hit the area in fifty years. Ice cellars in the community that provided a year-round freezer for whale meat and caribou have begun to melt at unusual times of the year (see also the Taking Action storyIupiaq Work to Preserve Food and Traditions on Alaska's North Slope). Kivalina v. ExxonMobil We have our own ways, our own customs. Hawley said that in another village, even one in the same borough, she would be an outsider. Broken, broken promise!. WebKivalina Replacement School The Northwest Arctic Borough School District contracted with Burkhart Croft Architects to design a new school for Kivalina, which is relocating The bingo hall sits across from the villages water tanks. Swan and Dolly spotted a couple of musk oxen in the distance, but nothing they cared to pursue. Getting materials here is onerous and expensive; sourcing them is another challenge. Several material source locations within these areas were evaluated for feasibility based on proximity to potential routes, quantity and It costs too much.) A water-stained notice on the wall displayed the liquor ordinance, and the bingo players drank sodas and energy drinks. This $43 million project solved a transportation challenge that allows the community to continue to live and thrive on their ancestral landscritical to supporting their way of lifeand allows them to make decisions about the next steps for their community. And this accelerated timeframe resulted in a significantly reduced design and administrative costs. Currently, residents transport their solid waste to a landfill located just over a mile from town. Its completion, in 2021, created a vital evacuation route where once the only possibility of escape was by water or air. Rates of obesity and diabetes have risen, and they might worsen as environmental changes continue to affect subsistence hunting and fishing practices. within these areas have been determined feasible and are carried forward for further evaluation (K-Hill, Wulik River Channel Source 1, Wulik Relic Chanel Most of the construction funds for the new school came from the state after the settlement of a lawsuit, filed by parents in the Yukon-Kuskokwim Delta in 1997, which claimed that Alaskas method of backing school construction discriminated against rural students. Seven years later, Kivalinas move is still mostly in the future, even though the island continues to lose ground. also includes construction of a second permanent pad near the inland side of the lagoon crossing used for contractor staging. For instance, the group Re-Locate received a $500,000 ArtPlace grant to fund a village-based planning hub for Kivalina, which will be housed in the village's community center. To revamp the village sanitation system, a biochar sanitation system is being designed to turn human and solid waste into sustainable energy. Kivalina before (left) and after (right) installation of a rock revetment in 2010the revetment can be seen as the light-colored strip of rocks to the side of the village in the photo at right. In the morning, when the BnG was empty, I would lie in my sleeping bag and listen as crosstalk came through on a VHF radio, which acts as a kind of Facebook walla place for villagers to exchange birthday wishes, ask if anyone is selling moose meat, or announce that the Pepsi shipment has come in. The first image, taken at the turn of the twentieth century, showed an industrial site. Kivalina is on track to get both a new school and an access road two things the community's been asking for for years. (The mine spokesperson said that leaders from Kivalina are on a subsistence committee that meets regularly with mine representatives to develop procedures and policies designed to minimize potential wildlife impacts.) These are plastic pails lined with garbage bags and fitted with toilet lids. While Alaska DOT&PF knew that the Kivalina project could have qualified in multiple categories, Quality of Life was the strongest nomination category. There were other changes, too. This content supports the highlighted step. The discussion then turned to the placement of the landfill, in an area known for its salmonberries. @l+0*3p{sL-0$T10)" d A computer and headphones lay on a coffee table, and on a shelf was a large pile of hard drives, evidence of Mitchells years of digital documentation, which include audio recordings with older relatives and video footage of major storms. Several beach protection measures have been tested over the past decade, but all have failed. In January 2012, the village of Kivalina voted to seek permission to build a new school seven miles inland, on a hill called Kisimigiiqtuq, which appears to have stable soils and greater safety from ocean storms. jonathan.hutchinson@alaska.gov (The mine spokesperson has since explained that the loader does have dust covers, and that the truck driver was unable to brake in time.). The equinox had just passed; the snow that blankets the island for most of the year had not started falling, but the change of seasons was in the air. Typhoon Merbok began forming in the central Pacific Ocean during the second week of September. Mitchell reminisced about the years when the arrival of qinu marked the time to dig whale out of underground caches, the permafrost freezers, if you will, she said. The corporation was formed after the passage of the Alaska Native Claims Settlement Act, in 1971, which ceded some forty million acres of land in Alaska to Native-owned corporations (in exchange for their relinquishing claims over the rest) and offered Native Alaskans a stake in the sale of oil and mineral leases on their land. Others expressed concerns about flooding. The caribou, part of the Western Arctic herd, were late showing up this year, a much discussed subject in the village. After evaluation (detailed in Section 3 of the attached Final Environmental Assessment (EA)), the Southern Route and Combined What kind of fertilizer do you use to make it so green? Alice Adams, an elder who serves on the Kivalina City Council, asked. The filmmaker, Gina Abatemarco, explores how climate A teacher named Clinton S. Replogle wrote an official report in 1911: Kivalina is very beautifully situated when the weather is nice and calm, but when the wind blows from the south it raises the water in the ocean until it sometimes almost comes over the banks. The community of Kivalina has been working for decades with a variety of local, state, and federal agencies to address threats of coastal erosion and flooding. 48846 - Phone (989) 855-3551. IRA is the acronym for the Indian Reorganization Act, which, in 1936, recognized the governing bodies of Alaska Natives. The need for a concerted effort to mitigate these In Kivalina, fish are traditionally left to age on the riverbanks for at least several days before being eaten or stored in freezers. The next morning, her nephew Clinton sat outside the community center with the carcass, teaching her grandson Aaron and another teen-age boy how to skin it as older relatives had once taught him. People in Kivalina are suspicious of their drinking water because of the mine. 2301 Peger Rd Fairbanks, AK 99709-5316 A sign posted outside her office reads IN A TELECONFERENCE MEETING ALL DAY, NOT IGNORING YOU, MILLIE.. Place focusses on reinforcement in order to buy time evacuation routes considered to date by Kivalina and the hall... Melting, and the communal laundromat and bathhouse kivalina school project the washeteria permafrost, are still unknown, banked! Retreat focusses on moving structures away from hazardous areas ; protection in place focusses moving! 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